Top 10 Ways To Kill Ash Trees

Even though they’re technically trees, ash seems to pop up anywhere, which makes them seem like weeds instead. These pesky plants are difficult to deal with when you’re severely outnumbered.

With effective treatments and persistence, you’ll get rid of them in no time! Read on as we list our top ways to kill ash trees with easy-to-follow instructions.

How to Kill Ash Trees

The best way to kill an ash tree is by cutting the tree down and treating the stump with a chemical herbicide. 

This method ensures that the tree doesn’t have any leaves to perform photosynthesis, which will eventually kill it. Meanwhile, the herbicide prevents the tree from growing suckers, where it can propagate from.

Ways To Kill Ash Trees

To ensure that you’re spoilt for choice, we’ve listed a few of the best ways to kill ash trees, along with step-by-step instructions to make this project a breeze.

Before that, be sure to wear personal protective equipment such as a mask, eye protection, and clothes that cover the skin. 

Apart from that, prepare necessary tools to help make the task easier, such as a ladder if you’re dealing with tall ash trees. 

Lastly, you may want to enlist the help of some of your pals as a couple of extra hands won’t hurt. In fact, you’ll finish even quicker with some additional manpower.

Anyhow, let’s get into it! 

1. Ring Barking or Girdling

Difficulty	Moderate – Hard ●●●●○
Speed	Slow-acting
Things You Need	• Personal protective equipment • Herbicide (optional) • Ax, hatchet, handsaw, or chainsaw • Sharp chisel-type tool • Dye (optional)

Ring barking or girdling is one of the most old-school ways of killing a tree. To do it, you simply need to remove a couple of layers from a tree’s stem. 

Though nowadays, some take it up a notch and apply herbicide onto the freshly skinned stem to boost the deterioration process. In our opinion, it’s helpful to use herbicide if you’ve got large and mature ash trees that simply won’t budge. 

If you decide to use herbicide, we recommend mixing a bright-colored dye or colorant so that it’s easier to distinguish which stems have already been treated.

Nevertheless, if you opt for the more organic route, girdling will still eventually kill your ash tree, but it may take a few months before it dies.

While it may seem impossible to remove the bark, it definitely gets easier once you’ve gotten the hang of it.

You’re going to need a sharp carving tool such as a chainsaw, ax, or hatchet. You’ll then want to start gently cutting through the bark, removing each layer carefully.

To make sure that this works, you want to get rid of enough layers to severely affect the tree’s food transportation system. 

In case you’ve forgotten how the layers of a tree work, here’s what each part is responsible for:

• The bark is the outermost layer of the tree that’s in charge of protecting all of the inner layers from harsh environmental conditions. 
• After the bark is the cambium, which is a growing cell layer in charge of producing new wood. This tissue is responsible for creating tubes that help transport food and water to different parts of the tree.
• Next up is the phloem which can either be dead or alive. Dead phloem joins the cambium and grows into the bark. Meanwhile, the phloem that’s alive consists of tissues that are responsible for taking carbohydrates created from photosynthesis.
• The xylem also plays a vital role in transporting water to the tree’s branches and leaves. 

Now that you’ve gotten a glimpse of each layer’s role, it’s evident that removing these layers will disrupt the tree’s vital supply of water, nutrients, and carbohydrates.

In order to severely affect an ash tree’s transportation system, you’ll need to cut away about 2 to 4 inches deep into the stem’s layers. Each ring should be about 4 to 8 inches wide, too.

Stripping away deep enough is vital to getting a reaction from your tree within the first 48 hours. Otherwise, an unaffected tree could mean that your cuts were too shallow and that you’ll need to redo them.

To increase effectiveness, you can create multiple rings stacked above one another that are a couple of inches apart. You can also girdle any surface roots and branches to disturb more of the transportation systems.

Though you’ll want to keep in mind that girdling ash trees promotes emerald ash borer (EAB) infestations. This is because the stress from girdling causes the tree to emit a chemical compound that’s irresistible to adult EABs.

If this happens, you’ll need to hire a professional to remove the tree as infected ash trees need to be disposed of properly.

How To Do: 1. With a sharp carving tool such as an ax or hatchet, strike at the tree at a 45-degree downward angle. You’ll want to create a horizontal line that runs around the circumference of the tree. 2. Then, you’ll want to create a second horizontal line that goes around the circumference of the tree. This should be made about 4 inches above the first one.  3. Now that you’ve got an outline, begin by removing chunks of the bark. Keep in mind that removing each layer will prove to be difficult, especially among larger trees.  4. Once you’ve girdled your tree, you can either leave it as is or apply a chemical herbicide immediately onto the area. 5. Keep a close eye on your tree, watching out for any signs of deterioration. This means that you girdled your tree properly and it’s working as intended. These signs include:  • Discolored leaves that are usually yellow or brown • Wilted, distorted, or curled leaves • Sparse canopy • Stopped growth • Drooped branches If your ash tree isn’t showing signs of poor health, then it could mean that the girdle process wasn’t done correctly. In this case, you’ll need to repeat it.  6. After your ash tree has died, you can have it removed by a professional arborist.  Pay close attention to the removal process to make sure that they get all of the underground roots, too.

2. Cutting the Tree Down and Burning the Stump

Difficulty	Moderate – Hard ●●●●○
Speed	Fast-acting
Things You Need	• Diesel, kerosene, gasoline, or motor oil • Funnel (optional) • Flammable materials such as firewood and dried leaves • Metal barrel with an open top • Charcoal • Chainsaw • Shovel Hatchet or ax

Cutting a tree down and burning the stump is definitely the way to go if you’re in a rush to get rid of your ash tree.

However, it’s important to note that burning any part of a tree is prohibited in certain areas due to restrictions in the fire code. Hence, you’ll need to double-check with your local council to see whether it’s legal where you live. 

Once you’ve got the legalities sorted out, everything else should be easy peasy since this method is quite straightforward.

When cutting down your ash tree, you can either hire an arborist or do it yourself. We always recommend hiring a certified professional to get the job done as they’re equipped with the right knowledge and tools to work around problematic areas.

Afterward, the preparatory steps to get your stump ready for burning is essential for a steady and controlled burn. To be specific, you’ll need to soak your stump in diesel, kerosene, motor oil, or gasoline so that every part is easily flammable.

Other preparatory steps include making sure that the weather forecast doesn’t expect any windy or rainy weather. This could bring about several problems and delay your project. 

Aside from that, be sure to have a fire extinguisher and water source nearby in case of an emergency. 

What’s great about this method is that you can save the wood for the fireplace during wintertime. While you’re at it, why not phone a couple of your pals and turn this project into a fun little firepit event where you can roast sausages and marshmallows?

How To Do: 1. If you won’t be hiring a professional arborist to remove the tree, you’ll want to begin preparing it yourself by removing all of the foliage using pruning shears. It doesn’t matter where you start as long as you get rid of all of the ash tree’s leaves. 2. After, remove the branches using a chainsaw. Thick branches are difficult to remove as there’s a tendency for chainsaws to get stuck halfway through. Hence, we don’t recommend attempting to slice off a branch in one go.  Instead, we suggest cutting the branch into smaller chunks. This also makes it easier to feed into a grinder or to be used inside raised beds. To do so, start by identifying how big you want your first chunk to be. You can measure a couple of feet from the end of the branch inwards toward the stem.  Now that you’ve picked out the spot where you’ll be cutting, make an initial slice from the top of the branch towards the middle.  Then, meet this initial cut halfway, starting from the bottom of the branch and moving your chainsaw upwards. Repeat this step for each large and thick branch.  3. Take a step back to carefully observe the direction where your tree is leaning.  This will help determine the direction where your tree is most likely going to fall.  Say, if your tree is leaning to the left, it’s most likely going to fall on its left side. If that’s the case, your escape route should be at the tree’s right side. 4. On the side where your tree is leaning, carefully make a 70-degree angled cut onto the base of your tree using your chainsaw. Using the earlier example, if your tree is leaning on its left side, make the 70-degree angled cut on its left side. 5. After, hold your chainsaw perpendicular to the ground at a height that matches the bottom of your 70-degree angled cut. Then, create a horizontal slice that meets the end of your initial cut. If you take a step back to observe, this will give you a triangle-shaped outline that you can actually remove. 6. For your final slice, finish the horizontal cut by passing it through the entire base of the tree, going out from the opposite side. So, if your initial horizontal cut started from the left side of the tree, your exit should be on the right side. 7. After making your final cut, activate the chain break feature on your chainsaw and exit through your escape route.  As mentioned earlier, if your tree is leaning towards its left side, this means that this is the direction that it will fall on as well as where you’ll make your triangle-shaped cut.  Hence, your exit route should be on the opposite side – on the right. 8. Now that you’re at a safe distance away from your tipping tree, simply watch as it falls over, but don’t forget to warn others by shouting “timber!”. 9. After you’ve removed the tree and are left with a stump, use your shovel or any digging tool that you have to remove the soil that’s trapping the stump. Be careful not to chop any underground roots as you’ll want them to stay intact and be removed together. Your ditch should be deep enough to contain the fire. To be safe, dig about 12 to 18 inches deep. 10. To prepare the stump for soaking, use a power drill to create several 8 to 10-inch deep holes into the top of the stump.  You can space these about 1 to 3 inches apart from one another. If you don’t have an attachment that’s long enough to create deep holes, you can create 45-degree angled holes from the sides of the stump.  11. Fill in each of these holes with diesel, kerosene, motor oil, or gasoline for a few days. Check in every now and then to see whether the stump has absorbed the fuel and replenish when necessary. To ensure that your stump is flammable enough, you’ll want it to take in as much fuel into all of its layers as possible. 12. Next, put a metal barrel on top of your stump, ensuring that it’s sitting right in the middle. The metal barrel is meant to insulate the heat, which will help keep the fire going at a steady pace. 13. Add the flammable materials inside the metal barrel and all over the stump. For this, you can add the following materials: • Dried twigs and leaves • Charcoal • Hay 14. Coat all of the items inside the barrel with another generous dose of diesel, kerosene, motor oil, or gasoline. 15. Next, it’s time to burn the stump either by directly setting it ablaze or burning a piece of wood and chucking it inside.  16. Carefully observe the state of the fire, adding more fuel and materials as necessary.  You can wet the grass nearby to prevent it from catching fire, too. This’ll also ensure that the area isn’t too hot. 17. Allow the stump to burn for as long as possible until you’re required to stop.  In some areas, you’re only allowed to burn until 6 PM.  If this is the case for you, put the fire out by removing the flammable materials. You can place these on a girl or non-flammable surface. Then, cover the metal barrel to prevent oxygen from entering. This should cause the fire to subside.  Continue to monitor until the fire has completely diminished before leaving it alone for the night. 18. The next day, check on the holes to see whether they need to be re-drilled. Then, fill it up with the fuel that you used earlier. 19. Restart the fire by either setting the stump directly ablaze or burning a piece of wood and chucking it inside.  20. Once the stump has completely burned to the ground, allow the ashes to cool before disposing of them.  We suggest allowing the ashes to cool off overnight. 21. Remove the stump carefully and double-check the soil in case there are any underground roots that were missed. 22. Fill the ditch with the dirt removed earlier along with some loam soil and sawdust.

3. Cutting the Tree Down and Grinding the Stump

Difficulty	Moderate – Hard ●●●●○
Speed	Fast-acting
Things You Need	• Chainsaw • Pruning shears • GrinderShovel

If you’re not too keen on setting a stump ablaze, then this is probably the next best thing if you want a fast-acting solution to killing your ash tree.

This method is quite similar to the earlier one, but the only difference is that, well, you’re grinding the stump instead of setting it on fire.

What’s great about this method is that you don’t have to prepare the stump in advance, so you can get straight onto grinding once you’ve chopped the tree down. 

This is also the way to go if your local council doesn’t allow you to burn any plants. 

When it comes to taking the tree down, you can either hire an arborist or do it yourself. Though, if you do hire an arborist, there’s a chance that they already have the necessary tools for grinding, too.

This is definitely a win-win for you because while hardware stores typically rent out grinding equipment, they usually don’t have the best quality.

Other than that, we care deeply for our readers which is why we don’t recommend beginners use such large, heavy-duty equipment without prior training or experience. 

It’s also going to be extremely difficult to get the hang of grinding a stump without any supervision from professionals. 

Hence, if you’ve got the extra money to spare, we definitely suggest simply hiring an arborist to do this for you.

How To Do: 1. Start preparing the tree by removing all of the foliage using pruning shears. It doesn’t matter where you start as long as you get rid of all of the ash tree’s leaves. 2. After, remove the branches using a chainsaw. Thick branches are difficult to remove as there’s a tendency for chainsaws to get stuck halfway through. Hence, we don’t recommend attempting to slice off a branch in one go.  Instead, we suggest cutting the branch into smaller chunks. This also makes it easier to feed into a grinder or to be used inside raised beds. To do so, start by identifying how big you want your first chunk to be. You can measure a couple of feet from the end of the branch inwards toward the stem.  Now that you’ve picked out the spot where you’ll be cutting, make an initial slice from the top of the branch towards the middle.  Then, meet this initial cut halfway, starting from the bottom of the branch and moving your chainsaw upwards. Repeat this step for each large and thick branch.  3. Take a step back to carefully observe the direction where your tree is leaning.  This will help determine the direction where your tree is most likely going to fall.  Say, if your tree is leaning to the left, it’s most likely going to fall on its left side. If that’s the case, your escape route should be at the tree’s right side. 4. On the side where your tree is leaning, carefully make a 70-degree angled cut onto the base of your tree using your chainsaw. Using the earlier example, if your tree is leaning on its left side, make the 70-degree angled cut on its left side. 5. After, hold your chainsaw perpendicular to the ground at a height that matches the bottom of your 70-degree angled cut. Then, create a horizontal slice that meets the end of your initial cut. If you take a step back to observe, this will give you a triangle-shaped outline that you can actually remove. 6. For your final slice, finish the horizontal cut by passing it through the entire base of the tree, going out from the opposite side. So, if your initial horizontal cut started from the left side of the tree, your exit should be on the right side. 7. After making your final cut, activate the chain break feature on your chainsaw and exit through your escape route.  As mentioned earlier, if your tree is leaning towards its left side, this means that this is the direction that it will fall on as well as where you’ll make your triangle-shaped cut.  Hence, your exit route should be on the opposite side – on the right. 8. Now that you’re at a safe distance away from your tipping tree, simply watch as it falls over, but don’t forget to warn others by shouting “timber!”. 9. After you’ve removed the tree and are left with a stump, level it to the ground if you can. 10 .Next, use your shovel or any digging tool that you have to remove the soil that’s trapping the stump. Be careful not to chop any underground roots as you’ll want them to stay intact and be removed together. Your ditch should be deep enough to contain the fire. To be safe, dig about 12 to 18 inches deep. 11. Now it’s time to carefully grind your stump. Situate your wheel about 7 cm from the stump before turning it on.  12. Then gently lower it onto the stump, grinding away about 10 cm while steadily moving from left to right. 13. Repeat steps #11 and #12 until you’ve removed the stump completely.  If your grinder can’t go any further, you’ll have to dig out the rest of the stump manually. 14. Fill the ditch with the dirt removed earlier along with some loam soil and sawdust.

4. Cutting the Tree Down and Treating the Stump with Herbicide 

Difficulty	Moderate ●●●○○
Speed	Fast-acting
Things You Need	• Chainsaw • Pruning shears • Herbicide • Power drill • Shovel • Heavy-duty plastic sheet

If burning or grinding aren’t viable options for you, then applying herbicide onto the stump is still an effective classic. 

What’s great about this method is that it kills the tree from the inside out. This means that it lessens the likelihood that your ash tree will produce suckers which it can propagate from.

This also prevents any unwanted ash trees from growing on your property. So this method, although an oldie, is still a goodie! 

When it comes to the most effective herbicide mixture, you’ll want to use either triclopyr or glyphosate.

Triclopyr works by tricking the plant into uncontrollably overproducing auxin, a natural growth hormone. After a while, your plant won’t be able to repair damaged cells or produce new ones, causing it to die.

Meanwhile, glyphosate works by stopping cell division, which hinders a plant’s protein production. Other than that, it damages the entirety of the plant, from its leaves to its roots.

Another big difference between the two is that triclopyr is selective while glyphosate isn’t. This means that triclopyr only works on certain plant types while glyphosate will harm any part of a plant that it comes into contact with.

If you’ll be using glyphosate, we recommend checking the weather forecast as wind or rain can make application challenging. The wind can blow off the herbicide onto nearby plants, while the rain can cause runoff.

For extra protection, we suggest covering the stump with a heavy-duty plastic bag. This way, rainfall won’t dilute the herbicide concentration inside the stump.

How To Do: 1. Prepare the tree to be cut down by removing all of the foliage using pruning shears. It doesn’t matter where you start as long as you get rid of all of the ash tree’s leaves. 2. After, remove the branches using a chainsaw. Thick branches are difficult to remove as there’s a tendency for chainsaws to get stuck halfway through. Hence, we don’t recommend attempting to slice off a branch in one go.  Instead, we suggest cutting the branch into smaller chunks. This also makes it easier to feed into a grinder or to be used inside raised beds. To do so, start by identifying how big you want your first chunk to be. You can measure a couple of feet from the end of the branch inwards toward the stem.  Now that you’ve picked out the spot where you’ll be cutting, make an initial slice from the top of the branch towards the middle.  Then, meet this initial cut halfway, starting from the bottom of the branch and moving your chainsaw upwards. Repeat this step for each large and thick branch.  3. Take a step back to carefully observe the direction where your tree is leaning.  This will help determine the direction where your tree is most likely going to fall.  Say, if your tree is leaning to the left, it’s most likely going to fall on its left side. If that’s the case, your escape route should be at the tree’s right side. 4. On the side where your tree is leaning, carefully make a 70-degree angled cut onto the base of your tree using your chainsaw. Using the earlier example, if your tree is leaning on its left side, make the 70-degree angled cut on its left side. 5. After, hold your chainsaw perpendicular to the ground at a height that matches the bottom of your 70-degree angled cut. Then, create a horizontal slice that meets the end of your initial cut. If you take a step back to observe, this will give you a triangle-shaped outline that you can actually remove. 6. For your final slice, finish the horizontal cut by passing it through the entire base of the tree, going out from the opposite side. So, if your initial horizontal cut started from the left side of the tree, your exit should be on the right side. 7. After making your final cut, activate the chain break feature on your chainsaw and exit through your escape route.  As mentioned earlier, if your tree is leaning towards its left side, this means that this is the direction that it will fall on as well as where you’ll make your triangle-shaped cut.  Hence, your exit route should be on the opposite side – on the right. 8. Now that you’re at a safe distance away from your tipping tree, simply watch as it falls over, but don’t forget to warn others by shouting “timber!”. 9. To prepare the stump for the herbicide application, create several vertical holes that are about 8 to 10 inches deep using a power drill. For extra measure, you can create a couple of holes on the sides of the stump at a 45-degree angle.  It’s important that your holes are made at an angle as you’ll want it to be able to hold the herbicide for your tree to absorb. Otherwise, it’ll simply fall out. 11. After, fill in each hole with a liberal amount of herbicide and let it sit for a couple of days. 12. After your stump has died, you can have it removed by a professional arborist.  Pay close attention to the removal process to make sure that they get all of the underground roots, too.

5. Poisoning with Rock or Epsom Salt

Difficulty	Moderate ●●●○○
Speed	Slow-acting
Things You Need	• Chainsaw • Pruning shears • Power drill • Rock or Epsom salt • Water • Heavy-duty plastic sheetFunnel (optional)

While using rock salt instead of herbicide is a more eco and budget-friendly alternative, this method is relatively slow-action and quite tedious.

You’ll first need to drill several holes onto the top of your stump. For extra measure, you can also drill the sides at a 45-degree angle so that they’ll be able to hold your saltwater mixture.

Speaking of, you’ll want your solution to have a distasteful amount of salt to work. Don’t worry, though, as you don’t need to taste it. 

Without getting too deep into the technicalities, salt works by drawing out the moisture from the inside of the plant. Other than that, the high sodium content will cause nutrient and mineral imbalances.

You’ll need to reapply your saltwater solution every now and then, so pay close attention to whether your tree has absorbed it already. To increase its effectiveness, you can also sprinkle salt all over the stump.

It may take anywhere from a few weeks to a couple of months before you see any significant results. Though this still depends on a variety of factors such as the size and maturity of your tree along with the environmental conditions.

How To Do: 1. Before you can cut down your tree, you’ll need to remove all of the foliage that’s in your way. It doesn’t matter where you start as long as you get rid of all of the ash tree’s leaves. 2. Once you’ve got the leaves removed, you can then move onto chopping down the branches using a chainsaw. Thick branches are difficult to remove as there’s a tendency for chainsaws to get stuck halfway through. Hence, we don’t recommend attempting to slice off a branch in one go.  Instead, we suggest cutting the branch into smaller chunks. This also makes it easier to feed into a grinder or to be used inside raised beds. To do so, start by identifying how big you want your first chunk to be. You can measure a couple of feet from the end of the branch inwards toward the stem.  Now that you’ve picked out the spot where you’ll be cutting, make an initial slice from the top of the branch towards the middle.  Then, meet this initial cut halfway, starting from the bottom of the branch and moving your chainsaw upwards. Repeat this step for each large and thick branch.  3. Take a step back to carefully observe the direction where your tree is leaning.  This will help determine the direction where your tree is most likely going to fall.  Say, if your tree is leaning to the left, it’s most likely going to fall on its left side. If that’s the case, your escape route should be at the tree’s right side. 4. On the side where your tree is leaning, carefully make a 70-degree angled cut onto the base of your tree using your chainsaw. Using the earlier example, if your tree is leaning on its left side, make the 70-degree angled cut on its left side. 5. After, hold your chainsaw perpendicular to the ground at a height that matches the bottom of your 70-degree angled cut. Then, create a horizontal slice that meets the end of your initial cut. If you take a step back to observe, this will give you a triangle-shaped outline that you can actually remove. 6. For your final slice, finish the horizontal cut by passing it through the entire base of the tree, going out from the opposite side. So, if your initial horizontal cut started from the left side of the tree, your exit should be on the right side. 7. After making your final cut, activate the chain break feature on your chainsaw and exit through your escape route.  As mentioned earlier, if your tree is leaning towards its left side, this means that this is the direction that it will fall on as well as where you’ll make your triangle-shaped cut.  Hence, your exit route should be on the opposite side – on the right. 8. Now that you’re at a safe distance away from your tipping tree, simply watch as it falls over, but don’t forget to warn others by shouting “timber!”. 9. To prepare the stump for the herbicide application, create several vertical holes that are about 8 to 10 inches deep using a power drill. For extra measure, you can create a couple of holes on the sides of the stump at a 45-degree angle.  It’s important that your holes are made at an angle as you’ll want it to be able to hold the saltwater mixture for your tree to absorb. Otherwise, it’ll simply drip out. 10. Then, create your saltwater mixture by combining 1 part rock salt and 2 parts water. To make the application process easier, you can transfer the mixture into a cup with a lip to avoid any spills. Alternatively, you can use a funnel. 11. Carefully pour the mixture into the holes, filling it up completely before covering it with a plastic sheet. 12. Repeat steps #10 and #11 every week until you’ve noticed signs that your stump has begun to dry out. Be patient as it can take a couple of months before your stump dies.  13. Once your stump has died, you can either let it decompose naturally or remove it. We suggest allowing it to decompose naturally for a bit as the weaker your stump is, the easier it’ll be to disassemble and remove. Afterward, simply fill in the ditch with new soil.

6. Speeding up Wood Decomposition through Potassium Nitrate 

Difficulty	Moderate ●●●○○
Speed	Fast-acting
Things You Need	• Potassium nitrate • Hot water • Water • Chainsaw • Pruning shears • Power drill • Heavy-duty plastic tarpaulin

Don’t get taken aback by needing to use potassium nitrate or as it’s commonly called, good ‘ole saltpeter. This is nothing like your middle school science experiments, so don’t expect any explosions! 

Saltpeter is a naturally occurring chemical additive that’s used in a variety of ways, from food preservation to gunpowder ingredients.

In this case, we’ll use it as a rotting stimulant. When applied inside the stump, it’ll hasten the wood’s decomposition process by encouraging fungi growth, making it naturally decompose faster.

All you need to do is to scoop some saltpeter into several pre-made holes that are at least 8 inches deep. Then, dissolve it in hot water to make it easier for the stump to absorb.

Afterward, you’ll want to preserve the moisture by covering the entire stump with a heavy-duty plastic tarpaulin. 

Again, don’t be too intimidated by using a science-y ingredient like potassium nitrate. In fact, saltpeter is often found in commercial stump removal products. 

Hence, you’ll easily be able to find it at your local hardware or gardening store in either powder or granule form. 

How To Do: 1. Before you can cut down your tree, you’ll need to remove all of the foliage that’s in your way. It doesn’t matter where you start as long as you get rid of all of the ash tree’s leaves. 2. Once you’ve got the leaves removed, you can then move on to chopping down the branches using a chainsaw. Thick branches are difficult to remove as there’s a tendency for chainsaws to get stuck halfway through. Hence, we don’t recommend attempting to slice off a branch in one go.  Instead, we suggest cutting the branch into smaller chunks. This also makes it easier to feed into a grinder or to be used inside raised beds. To do so, start by identifying how big you want your first chunk to be. You can measure a couple of feet from the end of the branch inwards toward the stem.  Now that you’ve picked out the spot where you’ll be cutting, make an initial slice from the top of the branch towards the middle.  Then, meet this initial cut halfway, starting from the bottom of the branch and moving your chainsaw upwards. Repeat this step for each large and thick branch.  3. Take a step back to carefully observe the direction where your tree is leaning.  This will help determine the direction where your tree is most likely going to fall.  Say, if your tree is leaning to the left, it’s most likely going to fall on its left side. If that’s the case, your escape route should be at the tree’s right side. 4. On the side where your tree is leaning, carefully make a 70-degree angled cut onto the base of your tree using your chainsaw. Using the earlier example, if your tree is leaning on its left side, make the 70-degree angled cut on its left side. 5. After, hold your chainsaw perpendicular to the ground at a height that matches the bottom of your 70-degree angled cut. Then, create a horizontal slice that meets the end of your initial cut. If you take a step back to observe, this will give you a triangle-shaped outline that you can actually remove. 6. For your final slice, finish the horizontal cut by passing it through the entire base of the tree, going out from the opposite side. So, if your initial horizontal cut started from the left side of the tree, your exit should be on the right side. 7. After making your final cut, activate the chain break feature on your chainsaw and exit through your escape route.  As mentioned earlier, if your tree is leaning towards its left side, this means that this is the direction that it will fall on as well as where you’ll make your triangle-shaped cut.  Hence, your exit route should be on the opposite side – on the right. 8. Now that you’re at a safe distance away from your tipping tree, simply watch as it falls over, but don’t forget to warn others by shouting “timber!”. 9. To prepare the stump, create several vertical holes at least 8 inches deep using a power drill..Scoop 4 ounces or at least 5 inches worth of saltpeter into the holes. If you have enough saltpeter to fill up the holes entirely, then go ahead. You may want to use a funnel, too, to avoid spilling it all over the place. 10. Next, add hot water into the holes. This will help dissolve the saltpeter, making it a breeze for your stump to take in. 11. Afterward, cover the stump with a heavy-duty plastic tarpaulin. Lock the moisture inside by covering the stump completely. This will also prevent any rainfall from entering and diluting the saltpeter.  12. Keep an eye on your stump for the next month or so.  Remember that decomposition doesn’t work as fast as lightning, so you’ll need to be patient and closely monitor the state of your stump. Though if you’d like to speed things up a bit, you can repeat steps #9 to #11.  13. Once you’ve got a well-rotted stump, remove it with a shovel. If the soil is difficult to work with, you can lightly water it and till it. Then, simply fill in the ditch with soil.

7. Spraying the Foliage with a Systemic Herbicide

Difficulty	Easy ●●○○○
Speed	Fast-acting
Things You Need	• Backpack sprayer Systemic herbicide • Dye or colorant (optional) • Ladder (optional)

While spraying the leaves of your ash tree with a systemic herbicide is one of the easier methods, it’s still one of the most effective.

This is because systemic herbicides such as triclopyr (row 51), glyphosate, and 2,4-D (row 75) work from the inside out. Hence, you don’t have to stress about your ash tree seeking revenge and growing suckers where it can propagate from.

All 3 of these herbicides work similarly by causing the plant to uncontrollably create more cells, causing it to work double-time and eventually die of exhaustion and starvation.

The main difference is that 2,4-D and triclopyr are selective herbicides, which means that they only work on certain types of plants. Meanwhile, glyphosate will damage any part of a plant that it comes into contact with. 

Regardless, it’s important to perform this project on a clear and sunny day as any runoff could potentially harm nearby plants. 

While this is a relatively quick-acting method, reapplication may be necessary to speed up the process. So don’t be too disheartened if your ash tree isn’t showing any reaction to the herbicide. 

Though if your tree is persistent, you may need to amp up the concentration of your herbicide. In this case, you’ll want to be all the more careful when applying. 

How To Do Prepare your herbicide according to the label’s instructions.  Depending on the kind that you have, you may need to dilute it or mix it with an oil-soluble additive. To avoid this, pick out a ready-to-use herbicide solution. To make it easier to apply, transfer your herbicide into a backpack sprayer. This way, you can get an even coating on the foliage. While this is optional, we suggest adding dye or colorant to the mixture to be able to identify which areas have already been treated. Though, this won’t be necessary if you’ll be treating just one tree. Apply the herbicide directly onto the foliage of your tree starting from its peak, moving downwards from left to right.  Spraying the top of the canopy and moving from left to right (or the other way around if you’d prefer) ensures less herbicide wastage. This is because any excess can simply drip onto the leaves below.  Be wary of applying too much, though. You want nice and even coverage, not leaves that are dripping wet.  After, expect your ash tree to begin appearing under the weather.  This means that the herbicide is working, so keep a close eye for these signs: • Discolored leaves that are usually yellow or brown • Wilted, distorted, or curled leaves • Sparse canopy • Stopped growth • Drooped branches If your tree looks completely fine even after a week or two, then it could mean that the treatment wasn’t effective.  In this case, you’ll either want to spray the foliage again or bring in the big guns and raise the concentration levels of the herbicide that you’re using. If you decide on the latter, be even more careful when applying as you don’t want to accidentally get herbicide on nearby plants or even yourself. Once your tree has died, remove it carefully, ensuring that all of the roots are intact. Afterward, fill in the ditch with soil.

8. Spraying the Bark with Herbicide

Difficulty	Easy ●●○○○
Speed	Fast-acting
Things You Need	• Backpack sprayer Systemic herbicide • Dye or colorant (optional)

This is actually commonly referred to as the basal bark technique because, as its name suggests, involves spraying the tree’s bark with herbicide. 

When it comes to spraying the bark of a tree, you simply can’t apply the herbicide willy-nilly as the tree won’t be able to absorb it. 

Instead, you’ll want to use an oil-soluble herbicide along with an oil carrier. Then, simply leave the tree alone for a week or two, letting it absorb the herbicide.

This method is great if you have a forest’s worth of ash trees that you simply can’t remove by chopping every one of them down. 

To easily identify which trees you’ve already treated, we suggest adding a dye or colorant to the herbicide. 

Along with that, we suggest double-checking your local weather forecast to ensure that there won’t be any clouds or rainfall in sight within the next week or two.

This is because the rain will wash away any treatment that you’ve applied, reducing its potency and effectiveness. 

However, it’s worth highlighting that this method works best on young ash trees that have a  diameter of 6 inches or less. If your ash tree has a large and thick stem, it’s unlikely that it’ll be able to absorb the herbicide.

We also don’t recommend this method if your property has a ton of grazing animals. You wouldn’t want your livestock covered in herbicide, right?

On the bright side, this method is highly effective and pretty simple to do. In fact, you don’t need to cut the tree down to remove the foliage.

So if there’s nothing standing in your way, then go for it!

How To Do: 1. Start by prepping your herbicide as directed by the instructions.  Depending on the kind that you have, you may need to dilute it or mix it with an oil-soluble additive. To avoid this, pick out a ready-to-use herbicide solution. To make it easier to apply, transfer your herbicide into a backpack sprayer. This way, you can get an even coating on the foliage. While this is optional, we suggest adding dye or colorant to the mixture to be able to identify which areas have already been treated. Though, this won’t be necessary if you’ll be treating just one tree. 2. Then, apply an even coat onto the base of your stem covering about 12 to 15 inches from the ground. 3. Your tree should begin to show signs of deterioration.  This means that the herbicide is working, so keep a close eye for these signs: • Discolored leaves that are usually yellow or brown • Wilted, distorted, or curled leaves • Sparse canopy • Stopped growth • Drooped branches If your tree looks completely fine even after a week or two, then it could mean that the treatment wasn’t effective.  In this case, you’ll either want to spray the bark again or bring in the big guns and raise the concentration levels of the herbicide that you’re using. 4. Once your tree has died, remove it carefully, ensuring that all of the roots are intact. 5. Afterward, fill in the ditch with soil.

9. Doing the Hack-and-Squirt Technique

Difficulty	Moderate ●●●○○
Speed	Fast-acting
Things You Need	• Personal protective equipment • Systemic herbicide • Ax, hatchet, or power drill • Heavy-duty plastic sheet (optional) • Dye or colorant(optional)

The hack-and-squirt technique is, well, just as it sounds. Also referred to as the cut surface treatment, it involves hacking away at the bark and then applying a liberal amount of herbicide.

What’s great about this method is that you don’t have to cut your tree down or bother with removing any of the foliage. You can do this treatment with your tree as is. 

The only difficult part is using a sharp tool such as an ax or hatchet to create a 45-degree angled cut. 

Other than that, you can also use a power drill to create a couple of holes on all sides of the tree’s stem. Be sure to make them at a 45-degree angle so they’re slanted enough to be able to hold the herbicide without spilling it.

Keep in mind that you need to be quick on your feet and apply a generous amount of herbicide immediately after creating the hole or cut.

Once you’ve applied the herbicide, it’s time for the waiting game. You’ll need to let the tree absorb the herbicide without any disturbances.

Having said that, you’ll want to avoid doing this treatment on windy or rainy days as poor weather could tamper with the potency or effectiveness of the herbicide. 

To remedy this, you can cover the holes or hacks with a heavy-duty plastic sheet. You can also mix a dye or colorant with the solution so that it’s easy to identify which areas have been treated.

After a couple of weeks, you’ll notice that your tree isn’t doing so well. Signs such as discoloration or droopiness mean that the herbicide is working.

If your tree appears unaffected, it could mean that the cuts weren’t deep enough or that the herbicide wasn’t strong enough. Thus, you’ll need to repeat the process by making deeper cuts or using a herbicide with a higher concentration level.

How To Do: 1. Get your herbicide ready as per the packaging’s instructions. The preparatory steps will differ depending on the kind that you have. You may need to dilute it or mix it with an oil-soluble additive.   If you’d like to skip this, make sure to get a herbicide that’s already in a ready-to-use formula. While this is optional, we suggest adding dye or colorant to the mixture to be able to identify which areas have already been treated. Though, this won’t be necessary if you’ll be treating just one tree. 2. Create several angled cuts or holes on the side of the stem. Make sure that these cuts are made downwards at a 45-degree angle. This way, it’ll be able to hold some herbicide.  As for the holes, make them at an angle, too, and around 3 to 7 inches deep. For extra measure, you can make these all over the tree such as on the surface roots. 3. Next, apply a good amount of herbicide, but be wary not to overdo it. 4. With your plastic sheet, securely cover the holes 5. Monitor the deterioration progress of your tree.  Pay attention to signs that the herbicide is working. These include: • Discolored leaves that are usually yellow or brown • Wilted, distorted, or curled leaves • Sparse canopy • Stopped growth • Drooped branches 6. Redo steps #2 and #3 if your tree doesn’t appear to be affected by the herbicide. If your tree hasn’t changed after a couple of weeks since the treatment, it could mean that your cuts weren’t deep enough or that the herbicide’s concentration wasn’t strong enough. 7. After your ash tree has died, remove it from the premises, ensuring to get rid of all the underground roots, too.

10. Hiring an Arborist

Difficulty	Very Easy ●○○○○
Speed	Fast-acting

Hiring an arborist is definitely the way to go if you don’t want to even raise a finger to kill your ash tree.

The ultimate selling point about getting a certified professional to do the job for you is that they’ve already got years of experience up their sleeve. Coupled with all the high-tech equipment and tools, there’s surely no room for error.

Arborists are well-trained to handle even the toughest trees in the stickiest situations. So if you’ve got powerlines or buildings in the way, they know how to get around that. 

On top of getting an unwanted tree removed, you’re also helping out the business of your local arborist. To us, this is definitely a win-win! 

So you don’t have any time to do it yourself and have some extra cash to spend, we highly recommend calling the professionals.

FAQs on Killing Ash Trees